Sunday, July 4, 2010

(lack of) Adult Supervision

This morning I looked out my window to see two of the boys on the volleyball team hanging out next to the girls' bathrooms, which are a mere 50 feet from my house. This isn't that unusual, as the girls' bathrooms are a hangout for many students before, during, and after class.  However, the boys that hang out in this area are generally the ladyboys who say 'ka' (for women) instead of 'krap (for men) and identify more as a girl. After I notice the kids, Kara comes to my door asking if I've got any food, as the boys are hungry....

This year, our school has decided to have a first class volleyball team, which means we had to recruit students from other schools. Since we weren't here this time last year, I'm not sure if the volleyball team is a new thing, or if we are just improving upon the old one. In any case, there are about 20 boys who have been recruited for this team who live on campus in a classroom - with no adult supervision. I believe the coach is supposed to be around, but even so, he is only one guy for 20 students, aged 13 - 18.  Some weekends he is away for one reason or another, sometimes traveling to Bangkok and getting back mid-week. While this seems utterly unthinkable in the USA, it's fairly common here. So much of the time you see small children taking care of even smaller children. If they 5 year old is the oldest of a family of three, that 5 year old will be taking care of their younger siblings while the parents work, eat, or even nap. They will watch out for the kids, get them ready for dinner, feed them, and even go as far as going out to buy food. A lot of young kids here are already selling food on the side of the road at their families establishment.  There is a food stand near my house that I go to fairly often and the 8 or 9 year old is always counting out the money and getting me what I need. As far as I have seen, it seems to work out well enough. Adult supervision just isn't something that is a priority here, but the kids don't know any different so they all work together to make sure everyone is okay.

Usually, this lack of supervision works, and it works well here in Thailand. However the two boys this morning demonstrated how hard it can be sometimes. They are the youngest of the group of boys living on campus and were either left behind  or didn't want to hang out with the older boys, who left campus for most of the day. I guess their old coach has come to campus and is trying to recruit the boys to go back home. In theory, this sounds okay. In reality, the boys are pretty scared of this coach and spent most of the morning hiding from his as they were afraid he would hit them. They wandered over to our place at around 1:00, driven by hunger since they had no money and no way to get any food. I had tutoring, but Kara and I were able to scrap together enough food to give them a decent lunch. She stayed with them until she had to head out later, and they told her that it was okay, they would just hide somewhere else on campus.

What's sad about this situation is that it's unlikely to change. The kids are away from home for the first time, living in a classroom, and being sort of stalked by their old coach. Of course, all of this has been spoken in thai and then translated into English so I'm sure there are some things that are lost in translation. I was under the impression that the school was trying to find an actual house for the kids, but that could take any amount of time. In the meantime, I suppose our house (kara's and mine) will be a sort of safe place for them, assuming we are home. It's these kinds of things that are so different from life back home and we get used to because they seem to work okay, until they don't.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Wai Kru (Teacher Appreciation Day)

 With two of the English teachers before the ceremony

Today marked the day that all students acknowledge what their teachers do for them, here in Thailand. It was about an hour and a half ceremony in which students recited several buddhist prayers, sang songs dedicated to the teachers, and presented them with these flower displays that they made themselves. It's been an ongoing project for most of the week with my M.6 students preparing the actual ceremony and students from every class helping to create the offerings. Instead of having morning assembly today, we started off the ceremony at 8 am, raising the flag and saying the normal prayers. All of us teachers had seats (in the shade of course) and the student representatives from each class stood behind us. They were meant to carry their offerings and present them to the directer/ older teachers. First the M.1 students lined up to offer their flower displays (I'm not sure what they are called in Thai) and they had a certain way to sit and bow in front of the teachers taht I didn't quite pick up on. I was, of course, wandering all around taking pictures, esp as many of my students had helped to set up the whole thing. Once the flowers were offered and received, the students 'walked' to the end of the procession (on their knees), and M.6 students took the offerings and placed them on tables behind the teachers.
Raising the flag every morning 

two of my M.6 students and their offerings 

M.1 students to start off the ceremony

Kneeling before the Po'ow (Director)


When all this was finished, going through each grade seperately, there were prizes for the best display. The prizes consisted of bags or tins of cookies, and like in many competitions, all students received some sort of prize. Afterwards, the students seemed to be dispersing and those that had extra roses or incense or something went off to find the teacher they wished to honor for the day. I'm happy to say I got a few roses - but from students I don't teach...hmm. To further wai kru day, the students all had strings for the string tying ceremony. We didn't actually do the string tying ceremony with these students with the official singer and all, but we did say things like 'out with the bad, in with the new', 'good luck and good fortune', 'happiness and success', which is what they say in Thai. You brush the strings over the wrists and then tie them while the student holds up one hand. I'm not sure exactly why this is done or how it truly originated but we do it fairly often.

M.6 with their prize cookies

String tying in the office

I had been informed yesterday that M.4 students had 'camp' Thursday, Friday, and Saturday but I didn't know that they first had a party! M.1 students and M.4 students are considered to be new students at the beginning of the school year. M.1 has come from another school and M.4 are now in the 'upper' school. So they had an initiation of sorts this morning after the wai kru ceremony, which just turned into this massive party. Again, M.6 was in charge of organizing most of it so I spent most of my day in the grand hall with the students. We did the official string tying ceremony here and it was chaos of hundreds of students trying to find certain teachers to tie the string on their wrist. All of a sudden the karaoke came on and some of the M.6's started singing some popular Thai songs. It was incredible. All attention turned towards the stage and all of a sudden everyone was jumping up and down. The teachers told me it was a mini concert for the kids -while I was loving it and having a great time watching it all, they were grimacing with the noise. I got to take a lot of pictures with the kids and then there were a couple dance performances. Again, my students. With the language barrier, it's hard for me to find out anything about my students, but with activities like this, I get to see who is involved in which clubs, etc. Some of my M.6 students and some of my more mischevious M.4 students are involved in the "A Two High's Crew" which is a break dancing group. They were great, and I realized I've seen them practicing before. I never thought it was an organized thing though. The students went wild when the group came on stage and were enthralled for about 10 minutes. Lunch came next and school returned to normal for the most part. I still didn't have any classes as M.4 is involved in this bootcamp and yet again, M.6 is running it.

The B Boy break dancing 'crew'! Mostly M.4 and M.6

More M.6 students - some of them were too shy to look at the camera

And M.6 again 


The 'altar' that's part of the official string tying ceremony

'Blessing' some students - 'out with the old, in with the new'

Dancin time

M.4 students






The bootcamp seems to consist of a lot of chanting and reciting, but other than that, I don't quite understand it. It reminds me of our HS lock in, but where we had fun and games, these students are being drilled by actual soldiers. It's three days and the students sleep on campus, wake up at 5 am, and then do bootcamp activities until about 11 pm. Just a few minutes ago I had about 6 students come to my house to use my shower as 500 students have an hour to shower in the few bathrooms on campus. Or something like that. I'm planning on checking the whole thing out tomorrow as I will have a light classload.

 We had a heavy thunderstorm this afternoon and the students took this as an oppurtunity to p
lay in the rain - who wouldn't? It started off with the boys just running through and then turned into this pushing competition.
M.1 EP students running from the rain. Most of the students were soaked by the time they were meant to go home - the storm came from out of nowhere and most were in the field or at the benches hanging out.

Classes this semester are going wonderfully - lots of singing and games but I feel like I'm teaching at a different school. It's been fun getting to know the M.6 students and hopefully we'll start having class again on a regular basis...even so, it's an improvement from last semester!

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Everything but the learning

As I was sitting in the office yesterday afternoon, I heard a loud noise and looked out the window to see a huge white cloud enveloping campus. Apparently it was time to fumigate the school grounds as it's the beginning of the rainy season.  Of course, no one was told - not parents, teachers, or students - and all over campus you could see children running from the white cloud. It smelled sickly sweet; another teacher remarked that it smelled like peaches gone wrong....as long as you were inside with closed doors. As soon as you stepped outside, it was an overpowering smell. It's amazing that something potentially so toxic isn't even considered a health risk here. Safety isn't a priority, and it seems that learning isn't either. As soon as the fumigating started, classes were essentially canceled because of the smell and 2000 students were roaming the campus before they were allowed to leave.

Today brought another interference to English learning on campus as M. 1 had evaluative testing all day - in the new English building. Us teachers were told to 'find our students and teach them wherever we could'. But word had spread even by first period that there was no English classrooms today and the students disappeared. I was told that they 'ran way' and we wouldn't find them again. This is nothing new though, students 'run away' all the time according to my Thai teachers, and there's really nothing you can do about it. Even after 8 months, I have a hard time coming to terms with this. My last class of the day yesterday was a full 35 minutes late to my 50 minute class and I just about lost it with them. When asked why they were late, the students said that they 'didn't know what time class started'. After some stern talking to (none of which they understood) and a threat that I would go to the director, I finally found out that another teacher had been teaching them during my class time. When I asked who I could go to to get this figured out, I was told 'no problem ajahn, do not worry'.  My thai co-teacher ended up telling the English director, so hopefully everything will be straightened out again by class next week.

Friday was another interesting day here at N.P.W.  The students had a twice as long morning assembly to talk about safety! It sounded great in theory but in practice proved to be quite unsafe. All of the students sat in a plus formation (+), with the center of the cross empty for teachers and directors to speak in. On Friday morning, the fire department came to visit. They were doing a fire safety lesson that involved propane tanks and fire extinguishers. At first, all seemed well as the firemen showed the students how to work the fire extinguishers. However, afterwards, they bring over a propane tank, set it in the middle of the students, and light it! Then students were able to take turns using the fire extinguisher on this extra large flame that had the potential to burn multiple people. For about an hour, students kept lighting and extinguishing the propane tank. It was definitely one of those things that you would just never see in the States. Imagine the uproar if you had 12 and 13 year olds playing with propane tanks on school grounds...

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

"The world is so narrow"

On Friday, I will have been outside the United States for exactly 8 months. It's hard to believe as it feels like time has either completely flown by or crawled at an excruciatingly slow pace. What's even crazier to think about is that I'm more than halfway finished with my program and I only have 4 more months before I head home. For that reason and probably a bunch more I haven't though about, I'm prepared to be much busier this semester, both at school and on the weekends. I want to make sure I hit all the spots in Thailand I want to go to (within reason, of course) as well as make sure I make the most of my situation at the school. As a volunteer, I'm given almost free reign to do whatever I want with the students. While it bothered me for quite some time, as I prefer to have structure than to be making my own schedule, it's turning out to be beneficial with my group of students this semester.  I came 'wanting to make a difference,' as I'm sure almost everyone else did, but it's nearly impossible to see the difference with 500 students. So I've taken that idea back a notch and hoping that I at least influence some students' interest in studying English. This means making my English class fun and engaging while trying to put some educational value into it.

One of the things we've been doing recently is tongue twisters, and they're a huuuuge  hit. It also manages to get almost the entire class engaged, which is a struggle for me sometimes. One of the favorites is "How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?" It's one of those sentences that's fairly easy for an English speaker to say quickly and clearly, but it's difficult for ESL students. I'll read the sentence slowly for the students, have them repeat it and checking their pronunciation, and then say it really fast for them. Immediately the class explodes into cheers or laughter or incredulous faces. It helps in class for them to see my acting silly or making mistakes, because it means that they're able to, too. In Thailand, as far as I can understand it, making mistakes causes you to 'lose face' which you never want to happen. One of the hardest parts of class is getting the students to participate because they are 1) nervous speaking English in front of a native English speaker and 2) they don't want to be wrong.

I'm trying to spend more time on the English floor but recently it's truly been too hot for me to stay up there after I'm finished with classes. On cooler/breezier days, I'll just hang out with the other Thai teachers or any groups of students that are wandering around. I've started tutoring one of the Thai English teachers in conversation three days a week and it's a blast. Yesterday we worked on spoken English, and understanding native English speakers, since they speak so fast - things like 'wanna', 'gotta', etc. A couple of the new Thai English teachers were around and we had fun just joking around.  They say a word in Thai, Isaan, Lao or some other Thai dialect and have me repeat it. I never know what I'm saying and I'm always saying it wrong as made clear when they are nearly on the floor laughing. It's a good time though and I'm always surprised with how much time has passed when I'm chatting with the Thai teachers.

Last weekend I went to Sakhon Nakhon (one of the neighboring provinces) with Haley, Tew (English director of the school Haley works at as well as a member of the family Haley lives with), and Nan (12 year old girl, another member of the family that lives with Tew). We picked up another teacher along the way and then had lunch at the pizza company! It apparently is the place to go on holidays/ weekends. Tew saw about 7 of her old students, we ran into Caitlyn (another volunteer) who was with a family we know from Nakhon Phanom, a teacher and her family from my school, and a couple other teachers Tew knew. Afterwards, I saw several teachers from my school in Big C (the huge department store...sort of like Thailands Target), and then 5 of my M.6 students eating lunch. I hardly ever see that many people when I walk around Nakhon Phanom!  Haley and I got some pepperoni pizza, which was wonderful. I also accidentally ordered this seafood loaded pizza when I was trying to explain what kind of crust we want. oops, got lost in translation.  Turns out no one really like seafood either! I ate a piece as I was the one that actually ordered it and the rest we took to go. We had a good time shopping around Big C and then it was back to Nakhon Phanom. The rest of the weekend was fairly quiet and very relaxing.

Next weekend I'll be helping out a couple of the other volunteers with an English seminar that one of the teacher's we know is helping to organize. I'm not quite sure what it entails yet, but it usually means some games or songs. The following weekend is a joint birthday/ early 4th of july celebration party with a couple us volunteers have grown close with over the past few months. It's a Western guy and his wife, and while I actually have never met them, I've heard they're awesome people and they offered to host a party for us. It's the little things that sometimes hit you the hardest, like being away from home on the 4th of July for instance, or missing someones birthday. I've been okay for the most part, but these get-togethers and parties are always very welcome and a wonderful chance for us to check in with each other. It also feels 'normal' in a way that teaching and living here doesn't, if that makes sense. And then, it's off to another area for an English camp at a temple the following weekend! I'll be taking pictures for sure and I've still got to add the ones from Vietnam and Cambodia so I'll try to be a bit better about posting.  It's off to lesson plan for the rest of the week. Until next time.

Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Pictures from Thailand

So I know I promised more updates and pictures sometime last week. Sorry for the delay! Last week was the first week of school and it proved to be much more exhausting than I remembered - after traveling and just hanging out for two months, it was quite the adjustment to going back to teaching and staying in school for 8 hours a day. To top it all off, it was perhaps the hottest week (at least it felt like it) and there was little to no relief. I think I ended each day with some amount of heat exhaustion and to top it all off, I got sick on Friday. Either a long and painful case of food poisoning or a nasty bug that just wouldn't go away. In any case, I went to the local pharmacy and the owner (who speaks English) asked me about my symptoms and then just handed me some antibiotics and anti-spasmatics, as well as some rehydration packets. This cost me a grand total of 115 baht! About 3 USD. Amazing.  Today (Wednesday) marks the first day I've felt myself in over a week so here are the those pictures I promised. Bear with me, there are a lot of them!

One of the first places I went to in Chiang Mai was  'Tiger Kingdom'. I went with a group from my hostel and we were able to hang out with the large tigers, as well as the cubs. They large ones were awesome and the small ones, well they were adorable.

6 week old tiger cubs!

The owner of Spicy Thai Backpackers Hostel, Noom, took a group of us to Doi Suthep, a reknowned wat on the top of a mountain. It's quite high and we were told that it is one of 5 temples that Thai people try to get to within their lifetime. This picture is of a part of the temple where you can pay a certain amount of money and be immortalized into the stone of the temple when you die.

This is the 'old city' in Chiang Mai, which is bordered by a wall. The picture doesn't do it justice though, as the wall is quite immense.

Ko Phi Phi! It's a gorgeous island and had some of the most beautiful landscapes I saw when I was in Thailand.

While Ko Phi Phi boasts beautiful sandy beaches and terrain, it also boasts one of Southeast Asia's biggest (free) beach parties. There are three bars on the beach and each one has it's own promotions as well as it's own fire show. This is one of the Thai men doing the limbo (we're talking about a foot and a half off the ground) and lighting a cigarette. Astounding. And something I would never do.

While on Phi Phi, I went with a group from my hostel to Long Beach, which was about a 45 minute walk from the main pier. It was much more calm and quiet, really peaceful. This was on our way there, passing all the boats rolling into Phi Phi.

Monkey Beach! Notice how this guy (I called him Grandpa Monkey) has a pepsi bottle.

Cliff jumping! Such a rush :).

Sunset on the boat after going to Maya Bay, where the movie 'The Beach' was filmed

I took a day off of the beach parties and craziness to go rock climbing on Railey Beach after several days on Phi Phi. It was a wonderful decision, and I ultimately ended up going back to take a rock climbing course. The area is actually one of the top 10 rock climbing area's in the world, which I didn't know when I started.

One of the cheapest ways to travel between islands in Southern Thailand is to take night ferries. Basically, they are cargo ships that cram as many beds/ mattresses on the top floor as possible. They generally leave around 9 pm and get to the islands at 4 or 5 am. I can't say it's one of the most comfortable things, but it's definitely an experience. Each boat is a little different too, so you never really know what you are getting into. I think on this boat there were 60 people lining each side. I was traveling from Surat Thani to Koh Phangan


I was on Koh Phangan for about a week which gave me plenty of time to explore. Just one of the beaches on the other side from where I was staying.

I met a really great group of people in Phangan, and some of us rented a Jeep for the day to see the other parts of the island. That's Justin, Mijke and I hanging on in the back!

My own little secluded beach! Okay, not really, but it was fun to pretend. In any case, there were hardly any people out here.

Of course, we ran across some elephants. It's a strange thing when seeing elephants wandering around doesn't surprise you anymore. This happened to be an elephant camp of sorts that one of us knew about. They let us take pictures and feed them (for a price of course).

Travel pals in Koh phangan! There was a group of 8 of us or so that got food and went out together every night which definitely made the week.

 Mijke and I traveled together for about a week and a half and had a blast. She and I were both traveling alone and wanted to make sure we knew people on Ko Phangan. Turned out to be great - we had our own room (with A/C) and didn't have to do the dorm thing.
 

The full moon on the night of the full moon party on Koh Phangan!

After Koh Phangan, I went to Koh Tao, just a couple hours north. This picture is from a viewpoint on an island right off of Koh Tao.

To get to the viewpoint, I kayaked out with two guys I had been traveling with. It took longer than I thought it would and was much farther than it looked. But we made it and it was well worth it.



After a few days on Koh Tao, it was back to the other side of Southern Thailand to go rock climbing again on Tonsai!

Rapelling out of a cave.

The view from the cave - you can see both Railey West (right) and Tonsai beaches.

Climbing...notice there is no rope above me!

Sunset on Railey West...I don't think I will ever tire of taking sunset/sunrise pictures.


This was something called Deep Water Solo - you climb on cliffs above the water with only climbing shoes and chalk - no rope. It's relatively safe. I had taken a pretty hard fall a few days before so I only went up a couple meters but this guy in the picture is hanging off of that stalagtite in the picture. He was an amazing climber and a little nuts.

Viewpoint on Tonsai

The group I spent most of my time with on Tonsai (minus a couple key people). My and Linda (on the left) did the rock climbing course and then would meet up with the others for dinner and drinks afterwards. Every night we went to a bar called Small World to hang out. Incredibly relaxing and a lot of fun.

This is Songkran - Thai new year. I was under the impression that it lasted for 3 days in Phuket but it was only one day so I got all of two pictures. This was the view from my van as I arrived in Paton Beach. It was, in one word, insanity. But the best part was that it was a holiday celebrated by Thai's and foreigners alike. Everyone had supersoakers and was just tossing buckets of ice water on each other. 


So if you didn't read the captions, hopefully you enjoyed the pictures. More on Vietnam and Cambodia in the next few days, as well as school life.  I'm off to lesson plan. Goodnight!

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Profile Placement

We had to write up a profile placement for WorldTeach so I thought I would share it with everyone. It's a pretty comprehensive view of what I'm doing here.

**I also want to add that I AM SO INCREDIBLY HAPPY AND GRATEFUL THAT MY MOM AND AUNT MADE IT TO NAKHON PHANOM LAST WEEK. SEEING THEM WAS BETTER THAN TRAVELING FOR TWO MONTHS......okay maybe not :). BUT. seeing you guys made my month! And just think, you got to be a part of history by seeing all the happenings in Bangkok! For those who don't know, KK and Mom came up here for just three days, but I was able to show them everything of importance. They were able to meet most of Haley's host family (who has become like my family), eat some wonderful Thai food, see my humble abode, and just hang out with me. We stayed at a hotel on the river and got to walk in the riverbed of the Mekong, as it's still fairly dried up...we are just now hitting the rainy season. Thanks for coming guys and see you in about 5 months!

Community

I live in the capital city of Nakhon Phanom province in Isaan, Northeast Thailand. There is a population of about 30,000 people living in this city. The ‘downtown’ is fairly small and just 1 km walk or bike ride from my living arrangements at the school. Despite being classified as one of the poorer provinces in the area, we have electronic stores, restaurants, hotels, and all kinds of convenient stores. There is also a bus station, a police and fire station, as well as numerous government halls and a provincial library. Most of the shops and restaurants are within a few square kilometers and border the Mekong River, which Nakhon Phanom resides on. It’s a beautiful place to go for a walk or hang out with the locals and it’s always much coolor on the water. While Nakhon Phanom literally means ‘city of mountains’, the land here is quite flat, with the mountains actually being across the river, in Laos. Many of the people here are store owners or have food stalls in the nightly night market, which is a central attraction for the town.There are also a lot of local farmers who come in daily to sell their goods in the town. It’s a big enough town that I haven’t explored all there is to explore, though it is also small enough that I run into at least 10 people I know when going to the night market or running errands in town. It’s an incredibly friendly town, and wonderful place to live.

Host School

I work at Nakhon Phanom Wittayakhom (high school), which has about 2500 students this year. There must be around 100 teachers, though I’m not sure of the actual number. It is one of the bigger schools in the area (perhaps the biggest) and draws a number of students from the surrounding villages.  Our school boasts the first English Program in the area, complete with English immersion and foreign teachers, though I work in the general program.  In the general program, there are 10 Thai teachers, Kara (another WT volunteer) and I, and Vince (a foreign teacher from Australia). On campus, we’ve got three three-story academic buildings, and one four-story academic building. There is also a swimming pool as well as a driving range that is open to the public when school isn’t in session. Many of the teachers live on campus, and the teacher housing is on the periphery of the campus. There are also two free standing buildings devoted to the English Program.  We’ve got running water and a somewhat reliable internet connection. There is air conditioning available in the English Program office and in the administrative offices. The food on campus is quite cheap and very good. Besides lunch, the vendors in the canteen sell food for breakfast and snacks throughout the day.

Teaching Assignment

I have anywhere between 30 and 52 students in my classes this year. Last semester I taught Mattayom 3, which is the equivalent of 9th grade in the US. This year, I’m teaching M. 4 (10th) and M. 6 (12th). The curriculum was changed this year, so I’m only able to teach my M.4 students once a week but I’m able to teach my M.6 students twice a week. It gives me a total of 19 class hours per week so I’m usually teaching 4 classes a day. Our school day goes from 8:00 to 4:00 and I’m generally finished teaching by 2:30. Every morning we have morning assembly in which we sing the school song, raise the Thai flag, and pray to Buddha. Any announcements that the school has are made at that time and the English Director takes this time to translate the announcements as well as let us know of any upcoming events. The semester’s generally last about 4-5 months with the first day of the Thai school year occurring on May 17. There is a month break in October, and the second semester begins in the beginning of November. The end of the school year usually falls in mid March. The levels of the classes differ significantly between grades as well as within the grade. Most of the students are advanced beginners and the higher grades are at an intermediate level. However, interspersed in each class are several students who still don’t know how to read or write. In each class I teach, I’ve got a Thai co-teacher with me, which helps immensely. In the beginning, we had some trouble with the Thai co-teacher’s actually staying in class with us, but it’s gotten much better this semester.

Living Arrangements

I live in a house on campus with another volunteer. It is a one story house that is divided into two separate rooms. They aren’t connected, so we each have our own front door and our own (western) bathroom. Our kitchen is outside, with a sink, refrigerator, and a propane tank to serve as our stove. We don’t have hot water, but it’s really not needed as most of the time the weather here is hot and humid. We do have a western toilet that flushes though, which is a luxury here. Our rooms came furnished with a bed, two desks, and a dresser. We are located on the outside edge of campus, but right next to one of the EP buildings and the girl’s bathrooms. It’s just a minute walk to get to our office and to the academic buildings on campus. We also have several water filter systems on campus, which we use to fill up our water supply. School is considered to be in town and is just a kilometer outside of the main cluster of stores and restaurants. It’s also about a kilometer to get to the hospital/doctor, in the other direction.

Language Issues

For the most part, learning Thai has been a lot of fun. Fortunately, there are a fair amount of teachers at my school that speak English well enough, and my English Director speaks great English. When I arrived in Nakhon Phanom, I knew a couple key phrases, but that was it. I was an absolute beginner. Thai is a tonal language so it takes a little while to get the hang of it and you will undoubtedly make a few mistakes. There have been many times in class when I’ve attempted to say something in Thai and I hear a collective gasp go through the room as all the students go ‘ohhhh, teacher!’ – then I know I’ve said something wrong! At this point, about halfway through the year, I know enough Thai to get by in daily life. I can talk to the market vendors and have brief conversations with my students and teachers. I know about half of the letters/ the writing system, so I’m working on that more these days. I find that the more I try to speak Thai, the more receptive (Thai) people are of me. Just making that little effort to speak their language goes a long way.

Greatest Challenges

During my first semester here at my school, we didn’t have class on a regular basis and that was possibly the hardest thing I’ve had to deal with here. The students were practicing for something called ‘Dream School’, which took up almost all of their free time and class time. Dream School is an achievement/ recognition that looks at all aspects of the school and is judged by officials all over the country. We had several dress rehearsals, and preparations could take weeks. Needless to say, both the students and the teachers (myself included) got stuck in a cycle where we weren’t used to actually having class. Weeks would go by when I wouldn’t see a certain class because of practices and holidays. It was difficult to motivate myself to make lesson plans and worksheets when 50 % of the time, the students wouldn’t show up to class. I also hadn’t taught before this year and felt a little out of my element.To top it off, about half of my students were not going to be returning to school the following semester, so they had the mentality of 2nd semester seniors. Despite this, it was a great year and I enjoyed my students. Their graduation day was harder for me than I anticipated and I found I was going to miss them much more than I thought!

Greatest Rewards

It’s hard to say what my greatest rewards are, because the smallest things make the biggest difference. One of the things that Thai students learn at the beginning of their education is that when someone asks how you are, the response is always “I’m fine, how are you?” The first lesson I taught last semester focused on greetings and synonyms for the word ‘fine’. When I came back to school this semester, my old students came running up to me and thought really hard about what they wanted to say before shouting out, “I’m great! I’m wonderful!”. It’s such a small thing, but we worked on that for a long time and I was always correcting them. When the students remember what we’ve worked on, it’s such a wonderful feeling.

Another thing that’s been wonderful about living here is realizing that I have my own little family here. Whether it’s the students, the teachers, or other volunteers, I know that I’m taken care of.  While it’s not a direct reward of teaching, it’s certainly a reward of putting my time and effort into living here. In just 7 months, I’ve made a life for myself.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Backpacking SE Asia: Thailand

It's been about two months since I last posted...did you miss me?? Despite my best intentions to keep up my blog while traveling, I found that I was too busy or just didn't want to pay at internet cafe's. I had assumed at most hostel's that there would be free internet, but when you're on a backpacking budget for a couple months, free internet becomes a thing of luxery.

After Chiang Mai, I went down south to Phuket which took me about 48 hours. The overnight train to Bangkok was amazing and incredibly comfortable - completely exceeded my expectations. I then bought a plane ticket to Phuket from Bangkok as it was not much more expensive than the 12 hour overnight bus ride. Regardless, I had to wait around in the airport all day. I have to say it was nice to be in air conditioning for all that time though. I spent about 3 and a half weeks total island hopping in the South. It's very easy to get around - ferries can take you absolutely anywhere. I was in Phuket twice (at the very beginning and the very end of my trip) and I can't say I love it there, it's just too skeezy in some parts. I spent time in Ko Phi Phi, Ko Phangan (home of the full moon party), Ko Tao, and Krabi province. I was in Krabi twice and I loved it. It's definitely a place I would go back to. It's home to one of the top 10 places to go rock climbing and one of the most beautiful beaches I saw while traveling. Tonsai beach, the rock climbing mecca, is a strange mix of laid back hippies rock climbers and partying backpackers who managed to find their way to this little known beach. I fell somewhere in the middle being a backpacker and also being interesting in rock climbing. I ultimately decided to take a three day course and spent about a week on the beach. It was relaxing to have some sort of schedule after a month of traveling.  Each morning I would wake up and go down to the 'chicken lady' for a hearty breakfast of muesli, fruit, and yogurt and then make the half hour hike to the other beach for a day of rock climbing. It's an amazing feeling to be so high up and eventually I was leading my own climbs, which was such a rush. I met a great group of people on Tonsai which was the icing on the cake. I was reluctant to leave but had made plans with others to meet up in Phuket. If I hadn't, who know's how long I would have stayed down there!

Ko Phangan was another great place to visit and a place I would recommend it to anyone. While it's got a reputation of being a major party island as it hosts the full moon party every month, it is also a gorgeous place to explore. Up in the North, there are many secluded beaches and areas to check out. I truly lucked out while traveling and managed to find great groups of people wherever I was that I ended up traveling with for a week or two.  Usually it was a mix of solo travelers and those traveling with just one other person. 5 of us rented a jeep on Ko Phangan and explored for the day. We hit up the local markets, secluded beaches, sandbars; it was a wonderful day and one of my best memories. While I loved meeting everyone and completely enjoyed sharing stories with other travelers, some of my favorite moments were exploring the islands.  They were all beautiful in one way or another. Ko Phangan had beautiful white sandy beaches, Tonsai had these huge rock cliffs, and Ko Phi Phi is home to some of the craziest limestone rock formations you can imagine. Ko Tao is also great as a place to chill out a little after the partying on the other islands. It's also home to an incredibly amount of diving schools. I toyed with the idea for about a minute, thinking I would stay awhile and get my scuba diving license but ultimately figured I wouldn't be using it anytime soon. I guess it just means that I've got to go back!

After playing on the islands for those weeks, I made it up to bangkok and had an unexpected mini reunion with some of the other volunteers! I had just left Haley down south to meet up with Matt, Caitlyn, and Steph as we were traveling Vietnam and Cambodia together. Turns out that Val, Tricia, and Kate were stopping by bangkok for the day. I rolled into BKK at about 330 am (after having 3000 baht stolen from me on the bus, about 100 USD) and promptly crashed as soon as I got to our hotel.

I don't want to overwhelm with pictures or stories, so more on Vietnam and Cambodia in the next few days! I meant to put up pictures (I easily took a couple thousand....), but my internet connection isn't strong enough. I'll try again tomorrow.

As far as being back in NKP after traveling, I'm finding I am enjoying myself. For the first few days after getting back, things were very quiet here as all the students were still on vacation and I missed the hustle and bustle of traveling and meeting people. After two months on the road, it was strange to be back in one place for a prolonged period of time. I can't imagine how it would feel to those who are backpacking for 6 months or more. I returned to my little house with an incredible number of ants, spiders, and various other bugs waiting for me. As the hot season literally heats up, bugs seem to be taking refuge in my house! It's become a necessary to always have a can of bug spray near me. I've alos become used to tiny bugs hanging out with me while I'm on my computer or eating dinner. It's just a way of life now but I can deal with them as long as I'm not getting bitten.

It's quite hot up here and there isn't much relief. While we've got a pretty substantial 'city' with dozens of convenient stores and electronic stores, etc, air conditioning isn't something that is normally installed. I'm slowly adapting, though not without some miserably sweaty days. It's best to stay inside, and when my room (which acts like an oven) is too much, I head to the one coffee shop, that is air conditioned.

Today was the first day of classes and it was great to be back. I was a little bit apprehensive as last semester was incredibly frustrating, but I've got a different group of students this semester. I also teach my students from before, but they have switched up the classes a bit, which brings some relief. I've also been assured that class shouldn't be canceled nearly as much as it was before. I had a great day, a fun day even, talking with the students and having broken english conversation with teachers. Returning to NKP after two months away made me realize how much of a life I have up here. Just biking to the market today I ran into a few teachers I know from other schools as well as Haley's host family. Turns out they had bought me dinner tonight! We sat and ate dinner at the table outside their house and just had a blast. One of the police officers in the night market loves to call me by my Thai nickname (gulaap - rose) and then start talking to me, though Ive got no idea what he says. The school supply store is great and it's run by a very sweet family who always gives me a discount. Simply put, I love it here, and love the friends I've made in just this short time. Already we're halfway finished with the year and I can't imagine leaving. (Don't worry family, I am actually coming home in October!).

On another note, the political situation is heating up here as many of you have heard.  Bangkok is a 'urban guerrilla warfare zone' but only in certain places and I've heard from some that the rest of the city is moving around as usual. I'm living in an area of Thailand that is almost 100% red shirts, as most of the population would be classified as the rural poor. The provinces around NKP have been put under a state of emergency, but we aren't there yet. Even if we were, it just means increased security personnel in the streets. I feel safe, but I do worry about what will happen elsewhere in Bangkok if the situation continues to deteriorate. I've been keeping up with the news, but that doesn't exactly paint the most accurate picture. It's not really talked about up here, at least not with us foriengers, though we do have our very own little red shirt rally in front of the goverment buildings. There's maybe 100 people that just set up camp and sit watching the news and wearing red. You can see support elsewhere such as red flags on tuk tuks and outside homes. Some of my students did mention wanting to go down to Bangkok and be a red shirt, which I didn't quite know how to respond to.

That's about it for now, pictures and other stories soon!
ra tri sa wat, goodnight!